SCHOLARSHIP DAY 4: Beluga Whales, Mountains and Glaciers

I was quite surprised- pleasantly surprised- when I peered out my hostel windows this morning. Blue sky was hovering over Anchorage, and the sun was peeking through some early morning cloud. Over the mountains, it still looked quite thundery, and I was pretty sure that the raincoat would make an afternoon appearance at some point.

I awoke pretty early, and checked out the hostel in Anchorage in good time to walk to the train station. My next location, Girdwood, is best accessed by the Glacier Discovery Train and it was scheduled to leave at 9:45am. The journey towards the train station took me through the market place where market traders were unloading and unpacking, ready for another day; I presume, Sunday markets are just as successful as Saturday ones. Outside the train station was a photo opportunity: the Alaska Railroad Engine #1 which was originally used in Panama, before it was refurbished in 1995 and brought to Alaska.

The ticket station was built in 1942 and maybe there are signs of wear and tear, but on the whole, it serves as a good waiting spot. I had the opportunity to buy a hot chocolate there, and the lady serving me recommended Girdwood as her mum often takes tours to see the mountains; it's always good to hear positive things about your next location!

 

Once again, I was lucky with the seating on the train; 19A was a window seat, and on the west side of the train where the best views were supposed to be, according to my 'Ride Guide' that I bought at a reasonable price of $5. The conductor, Harry Ross, apparently is the top dog when it comes to railway conducting in Alaska, although I never got a chance to chat to him and test his knowledge of the railroad. Although I had my Ride Guide, the journey had complimentary commentary by Dan, although on the 'mic' it sounded like Stan. With everyone seated, we left dead on time at 9:45am and immediately were given the safety announcements which I thought went on a bit, but I'm sure it gave commentator Dan some enjoyment.

The journey from Anchorage to Girdwood takes a coastal route, exiting south of the city and onto Turnagain Arm and Cook Inlet. As we left the city, I noticed gravel pits, and I'm told, gravel is very important for Alaska. It is placed underneath building foundations to prevent problems with thawing permafrost, although Anchorage itself isn't affected by permafrost. The gravel also is put along the train track and so mass production is significant, especially during the summer months.


Turnagain Arm is the name of the large water mass that accompanied most of the journey. It isn't deep, but it is very silty (something that Captain James Cook noticed when he made the discovery here). The muddy appearance is because this is an outwash plane from nearby glaciers. Geography students will know what I mean. We were passing it at mid-tide, but bore tides (a 15mph break at shallow water) have been seen here.

Beluga Whales are commonly sighted here, especially when salmon are running which is this time of year. The train came to a halt at one particular part of the route allowing me to get a photo. It would be my very first beluga whale sighting, and after the moose yesterday, I wondered what would be next!

Evetually, we arrived at Girdwood. Unlike Anchorage, there is no train station, just a shelter, emphasising the importance of pre-booking! Six people got off with me at Girdwood; two from Switzerland on a holiday, and four from the 'lower 48' or the rest of the USA. I became acquainted with two; a couple by the name of Farkas Worthy who are from West Virgnia, booked at a conservation conference in Girdwood. They were impressed, I think, with my itenary and when I mentioned L.A, they immediately gave me details of their son, who is a designer and artist but also very keen surfer there. A possible meet up later in the year?

The shuttle bus arrived later than scheduled, and it was nice to see transportation 'on the house' for once. It's radio was tuned into 88.9; back in England, it would be radio 2, but still the music coming from this one wasn't all that bad. Not that I had much time to listen to it; within minutes, I was being dropped off at the junction to Timberline. You can see why they call it Timberline; all the houses are made out of wood, and are mostly on stilts; the reason, as yet, I am not sure. Many of the residents were coming out to greet me and to offer help in finding the hostel.

I did eventually find it. The Hostel opens out to woodland and wilderness; it is, I suppose, very much like a small hut. All I can report from my welcoming here is a certain unheimlich atmosphere; one man was certainly not all there, asking if there was a koala bear in my rucksack. Payment was made; I was shown to my bed and I made a quick escape, and proceeded back to the town for a look around.

Girdwood used to be a mining town, but now it homes the Ayleska Resort; a large tourist destination, although I wouldn't say the town is structured very well for the visitor. There are little provisions in the way of food and drink, no shops at all, although I did find a cafe and had a smartie cookie. Nearby, I noticed a rock outcrop and a sign that Girdwood is very tectonically dynamic.

My next goal was to ride the tram to the mountains and a short walk through the forest led me there. On the way, I was greeted by a forest worker who informed me the trees were mostly Hemlock, White and Black Spruce. The tram is set amongst the Hotel Ayleska with a model moose and bear outside, along with a fountain and garden area. A student ticket for a tram is $17 but apparently this lasts all day.

The tram ride takes you up to about 2000 feet and it would be the first time I had ever seen a kettle hole in the landscape. The ride takes you to the base of quite a lot of hiking trails across the mountains and I proceeded up one, which offered me very good photo opportunities of glaciers, and the local Chugach Mountain Range, along with the Turnagain Arm in the distance. I was pleased to spot striation marks in the rocks, telling me which way the glacier was creeping, and was also very pleased to get up close to a glacial lip! More of this tomorrow I think!