The two main attractions today that I wanted to visit was the World's Smallest Park and the SkyTram ride, both of which reside south of downtown along the Willamette River, so a lovely river walk would be on my menu too. Despite forecasts of more unpleasant weather, I left the hostel this morning greeting the welcoming hue of blue, and put in a good mood about this, I decided to extend my walk and first walk into the North-West district; an area I have seldom made time for during my time here this week. Portland is one of those cities with strongly segregated 'districts'. Of course, they're not segregated in the way that you can't access them without showing a pass or an ID card, but they are notably different both in style of housing, street activity, and general character. (I know that sounds vague, but it's difficult to understand the intricate differences until you've visited.)
I eventually found myself in the Pearl District. The area is notable for formally being a site of 'Light Manufacturing' as Ernest Burgess might have classified it; back in the last century, this area was used for factories and breweries. In the late nineties, an Urban Renewal scheme removed these factories, took away the viaduct, and now the district is known for its art galleries and high rise flats.
Without fully intending to, I seemed to leave the Pearl District almost immediately and found myself once again in Chinatown. I didn't think I had given China Town enough of my attention on my first day here, probably because it was getting dark, so this morning's walk through the ethnic enclave was a nice refresher. I can't admit to seeing anything of any major inspiration, apart from the Chinese Gardens which asked for a very generous 'nearly-a-rip-off' $9.50! If Oregon Zoo charged $10.50, I imagined that this was maybe a little pricy.
As I neared the Willamette River walkway, an ample space for joggers and cyclists alike, I spotted a gaggle of Canadian Geese. They were very content on plucking their way through the grass, most likely hunting out their own breakfast. A goose's life isn't as comforted as the hostellers, who is offered a free breakfast daily! Their name suggests that they should be in colder climes, but according to my small amount of research, the Canadian Goose is native to temperate regions of North America. Portland is indeed temperate, although I'm beginning to wonder. My fingers are starting to crack again, like they did in Alaska, and I originally had put it down to low humidity, but if it's starting to occur here in Oregon, then perhaps the culprit isn't weather-based, but something else. At least I have my Burt's Bees cream!
My walk along the river was a pleasant one, although at times, a gust of wind managed to meander it's way through the skyscrapers, and somehow nearly bring me to a standstill, which often made me wish I was going north. But the fact is, there is so much south of downtown that I hadn't previously known had existed. One thing I am noticing more of is just the sheer number of people using the great outdoors as a way of keeping fit. Despite the prejudices of 'all Americans are fat' I disregard that, as I must have passed a good 50 people today also using the river walk as the location of their aerobic training. One couple had took it further; they used the park benches to assist them with their press-ups and made use of the open grass to periodically do star-jumps and the all important stretches. Compared to these people, I was making very slow progress, especially when I often stopped to turn back and survey the views. It's important to do this because otherwise you only observe the city from one angle.
I eventually found myself staring at a small cable car making a speedy yet controlled descent. I was quite looking forward to the SkyTram; it would provide me with the highest views of Portland I would achieve on this trip. I have captured the city from both the west and the east this week, but until today I hadn't been able to secure a view from either north or south; the Portland SkyTram would enable the latter. At only $4 for a round trip, I thought it well worth it. My only regret is that I couldn't keep my ticket for my mementos, but I suppose if you could, some might re-use them.
Aboard the SkyTram within minutes, I was soon offered the urban panorama once again. It feels that I've never been 'up in the air' so much as I have been in the last few weeks. It's a great way to study city structure though. The first part of this ascent overlooked views of the Portland freeway. For midday in the city, I was extremely surprised not to see this busier, but then remembered that someone had told me that most people go through the city, rather than use the freeway, congesting the one way system and ultimately leaving the freeway practically bare. Once again, Dire Strait's Telegraph Road came to mind.
After ascending some more, I eventually got good views of the CBD and the neighbouring southern residential district. In the distance, but hardly inconspicuous, are the towering skyscrapers; flat and loft residential conversions are somewhat shielded by areas of greenery, and almost immediately, you come to an area of two to three storey houses, with ample sized back gardens. There's no monotony here either; every house has its individuality whether it be through colour, shape, or garden design. Typically with these inner suburban houses, cars are parked on the roadside, and garages are few and far between.
I took as many photos as possible before we reached the end of our journey on the SkyTram. I exited the car expecting there to be a residential district that I could walk around before heading down again, but as is always the case, I was hit with the unexpected, and found myself entering through two well polished glass doors, and walking down a corridor belonging to a newly built building of contemporary style. Where was I? There was this almost identifiable scent of antiseptic spray and the walls and the floor were gleaming just as the two large glass doors were that had led me to this location, which presently I couldn't put a name to. A couple of young people in white coats, looking almost as if they had graduated yesterday, passed me in a hurry, and I was drawn to the signs of 'Oncology Ward Upstairs' and 'Patient Reception' and it was then that I realised I was walking through a hospital. A glance to my left and an elderly group were sitting in comfortable arm chairs, staring out the large floor-to-ceiling windows, looking quite relaxed as if this was their home; coming to think of it, it probably is. With my small travelling backpack and my National Geographic camera case exposed for the whole corridor to see, I wondered just how often tourists who ride the SkyTram find themselves instantly bewildered by the sight, not of a city park or a road-sign, but by a stethoscope and an oxygen mask. Well I decided the best thing to do would be to find the nearest exit, and to return somehow to the SkyTram. Just before I left on a downward descent, I got quite a good view of the city and the Willamette River. The views looked almost picture-postcard like.
On the downward descent, I decided to look in the opposite direction and catch a glimpse of what south Portland looked like. The residential unit continues southwards, and along the river there is a series of high rise apartments and offices; it turns out that there is significant building development going on along this stretch of the Willamette at the moment. Some even say it's the biggest development project at present here in the United States!
At long last, I was back on ground, and decided it was time to head back north to try and find the World's Smallest Park. It turns out that I've passed it quite a few times this week without realising it, so I kept my eyes peeled. I didn't want to unknowingly pass it again! I soon discovered the reason why I had kept passing it; Mill Ends Park- the name of this internationally recognised park- is sited in the middle of a road! It turns out that a journalist Dick Fagen from the Oregon Journal often glanced from his second floor office window down to this road, and imagined a 24 inch in diameter park below. The rest, as they say, is history!
I decided to have the afternoon off from explorations, enjoy what was left of a fine afternoon in Portland, and get ready for my departure tomorrow. On my way back to the hostel this evening I came across this. An Alpaca? In Portland? Well, that's basically Portland- expect the unexpected!
No comments:
Post a Comment